New Balance 997 x ALD Review and why this has become my favorite

The New Balance 997 x ALD — ALD saved the best for last in Season 24. Originally available through the Aime Leon Dore website, with this one. The New Balance 997 x Aime Leon Dore was the final sneaker drop of the collection, and in my opinion it was the strongest New Balance collab they’ve put out. The dark moss and angora colorway with that yellow tongue hit differently in person — neutral enough to wear with everything, but distinctive enough that anyone who knows, knows.

I paid full retail — around $250 after shipping through the raffle — and I’d do it again without a second thought. When resale was sitting at $400 right after the drop, I thought about flipping them and buying back in a few months for basically a free pair. Couldn’t pull the trigger. Some sneakers you just keep.

New Balance 997 x ALD: Quick Verdict

Pros:

• Made in USA — the quality of materials and construction shows immediately
• Neutral colorway (dark moss/angora + yellow tongue) works with almost everything in your closet
• Narrow silhouette suits every pant style except baggy — pairs especially well with straight-cut and tapered fits
• Surprisingly breathable despite the heavy premium materials
• No break-in period — fit perfect straight out of the box

Cons:

• Comfort is only average for New Balance — not in the same league as the 2002R or 990 series
• Heavier than comparable models like the NB 996
• Low-top, narrow profile means less ankle stability — can feel slippery on the foot
• Only available at retail through ALD’s raffle system — resale only now

Best for: Casual everyday wear, dressed-up streetwear, fall and winter outfits.

Design and Materials

The New Balance 997 is a 1991 original — it launched during the American jogging boom and went head-to-head with sneakers like the Nike Air Max 1. It’s a genuine cult classic with heritage behind it, which makes the ALD treatment feel earned rather than forced.

The dark moss and angora colorway is the move. Olive leather panels with contrast white stitching, an olive mesh underlayer, and that yellow tongue that pulls the whole look together. The moment I saw it styled with casual and formal wear on the ALD Instagram, I was sold. These neutral, earthy tones work with most of my wardrobe without trying.

Made in the USA, and you can tell. The sourcing and construction quality is immediately noticeable — this is how New Balance handles collabs compared to other brands that just slap a logo on cheap materials. The leather panels feel substantial. The stitching is clean. The box has that classic, understated ALD aesthetic I’ve come to expect — I keep all my collab boxes and this one earned its spot on the shelf.

One warning on the yellow tongue: I made the rookie mistake of wearing these with dark indigo jeans early on, and the dye slightly stained the upper edges of the tongue. Wear lighter pants with these until you’ve got a few wears in, or just be more careful than I was.

Comfort and Fit

Honest take: comfort is around three out of five stars. That’s not bad — it’s better than most non-Made-in-USA New Balance models — but if you’re expecting the cushioning of the 2002R or 990 series, you’ll be disappointed. The 997 is a running-heritage shoe, not a lifestyle cushioning shoe, and the ride reflects that.

Compared to my NB 996 x ALD, the 997 actually offers noticeably more cushion and support. The midsole has more substance underfoot. What it lacks in plush cloud-feel, it compensates for in a more supportive, structured ride.

The best surprise: breathability. Despite the heavy premium leather construction, these are oddly breathable. I think it’s the inner mesh layer doing the work. After a full day of wear, my feet didn’t feel suffocated. Bought at the beginning of winter and wore them heavily — they kept my feet relatively warm without overheating.

Zero break-in period. Fit perfectly straight out of the box. I didn’t even need to re-lace them after the first wear.

Sizing Advice

Go true to size. I’m a 9.5 and it worked out perfectly — slight room at the toe which I prefer. Sizing on the 997 runs similar to the NB 996. When I’ve sized down in this family of New Balance models in the past, I’ve ended up with toe issues, so I’d stick to your standard size unless you have a specific reason to go down.

Styling and Everyday Wear

Like most ALD x New Balance collabs, these dress up or down without much effort. I’ve worn them with jeans, trousers, sweats, and shorts. My favorite pairing is high-water straight-cut chinos — the narrow silhouette of the 997 sits perfectly against a cropped trouser hem.

The narrow profile is a genuine asset here. It works with almost every pant cut — slim, straight, tapered, jogger — except baggy, which is a cut that should have stayed gone anyway. The colorway helps too. Dark moss and angora are quiet enough to let the outfit do the talking, but interesting enough that the shoe isn’t invisible.

Skip the gym in these. I wouldn’t run in them, I wouldn’t lift in them. They’re a walking, everyday, dressed-up sneaker. Trying to use them for athletic activity would be wasting what makes them special.

Price and Value

Retail was around $250 after shipping through the raffle — expensive for a New Balance, but justified for a Made in USA ALD collab. The resale market tells the story of a shoe that dropped hot and then settled. Initial resale was around $400. At time of writing, size 9.5 pairs are available for around $200 on StockX and Flight Club after fees — meaning you can potentially grab these for less than retail if you’re patient.

That price drop is actually a positive for me. If I ever wear through these, I can replace them for less than I originally paid. That’s a rare situation with ALD drops. Check the New Balance sneaker deals and retro sneaker deals pages if you want to track pricing — I post when deals surface on resale platforms. Original stock can still occasionally be found on the official New Balance website or through ALD direct.

Alternatives

• New Balance 996 x ALD – The closest comparison in the ALD ecosystem. Lighter, slightly less cushion, similar colorway aesthetic. Worth hunting for at the right price.
• New Balance 990v5 (Made in USA) – If you want the MIUSA quality in a more versatile cushioning story, the 990v5 delivers more comfort in a similar heritage package.
• New Balance 2002R – More cushion, more comfort, easier to find on sale. If the 997’s comfort rating concerns you, the 2002R is the move.
• Saucony Jazz – Another early-90s running shoe classic that shares some of the same heritage energy at a much lower price point.

Final Verdict

The NB 997 x ALD is a lifelong keeper for me. It’s not the most comfortable sneaker I own and it’s not the most versatile — but the design, the materials, and the heritage behind it put it in a different category. This is the kind of sneaker you hold onto because there’s nothing else quite like it in your rotation.

If you missed the raffle, the resale market is currently in a reasonable place. Not a steal, but not getting gouged either. For an ALD x Made in USA collab, that’s a decent entry point.

• Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆
• Design: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
• Value: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆
• Overall: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

FAQ

Is the New Balance 997 x ALD still available at retail?

No — these are resale only now. The ALD raffle is the only way they sold at retail. You can find pairs on StockX, Flight Club, and GOAT. Size 9.5 was sitting at or below retail at time of writing.

Does the NB 997 x ALD run true to size?

Yes, true to size. Sizing is similar to the NB 996. I’d avoid sizing down in this model family — the fit is structured enough that going smaller tends to create toe pressure.

How comfortable is the New Balance 997 x ALD for daily wear?

Moderate comfort — three out of five stars. Better than non-Made-in-USA New Balance models, more supportive than the NB 996 x ALD, but well behind the 2002R or 990 series for cushioning. Fine for everyday wear, not great for long walks or standing all day.

What outfits work best with the NB 997 x ALD?

The narrow silhouette and neutral colorway make these very versatile. Best with straight-cut or tapered pants — jeans, chinos, trousers, sweats. High-water straight-cut chinos are my personal favorite pairing. Avoid baggy cuts; the narrow profile gets lost.

Is the yellow tongue on the 997 x ALD delicate?

It can be. I stained mine slightly wearing dark indigo jeans before they were fully broken in. Wear with lighter washes until you’ve got several wears in, or be mindful about what you pair them with early on.